A Guide To: Japanese Flavors

PHOTO BY: FUNNYFACE/SHUTTERSTOCK

A GUIDE TO: JAPANESE FLAVORS

By: Brent Nakano

Washoku, or Japanese food, is an UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage cuisine which
has significant relevance to the way food is viewed within the global context. The formal
element of Kaiseki, the traditional Japanese multi-course dinner, has contributed
significantly to the shift from classic French cuisine to the nouvelle cuisine movement
of the 1960s.

The following documents, developed by the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry
and Fisheries, served as reference for this article, and are tremendous resources
which we highly recommend reading.

The Washoku Way: Japan’s Nuanced Approach
to Food www.maff.go.jp/j/shokusan/gaisyoku/pamphlet/

Washoku Guidebook www.maff.go.jp/e/data/publish/attach/pdf/index-20.pdf

Washoku, traditional dietary cultures of the Japanese, notably for the celebration of New Year ich.unesco.org/en/RL/washokutraditional- dietary-cultures-of-the-japanese-notably-for-the-celebration-of-newyear-00869

Additional notes were taken from a influential Japanese cookbook, which we highly recommend reading, not just for the understanding of Japanese food, but food in general: Tsuji, S., & Sutherland, M. (2007). Japanese cooking: a simple art. Kodansha International.

Philosophical Approach to Washoku

It unites family and region
As in most cultures, food is a central part of Japanese family get-togethers, celebrations,
festivals, and annual events.

A wish for health and longevity
Best exemplified by Osechi ryori (New Year dishes), certain foods are eaten for luck and
prosperity. Since each region in Japan has its own customs, this helps to preserve the
unique culture of the different regions. For more on traditional foods eaten for special
occasions, read Kokoro: Cherished Japanese Traditions in Hawai'i: jwsf.org/support-us/publications/
Author’s note: I transcribed the culinary segment for my grandmother after my Junior year of high school.

Respect for Nature and Seasonality
Japan’s Shinto religion places an emphasis on the spirits in nature. This is reflected through the many matsuri (festivals) centered around naturally-occurring events like moon phase changes and harvest festivals. Beyond the reflection of seasonality in the ingredient selection, plating, decor, and tableware, guiding principles include:
• Mottainai, meaning “don’t waste,” is a
practice of this value and taken into
account through the sustainable use
of natural resources, as seen through
preservation of food by drying and
pickling, and the usage of locally available
ingredients.
• Wabi-sabi, the acceptance of transience
and imperfection in nature, is
also a manifestation of the respect for
nature and seasonality.
Seasonality, can be depicted through the
usage of an ingredient. A non-traditional
example is serving sparkling wine typically
harvested early in the growing season, versus
still wine harvested at ideal ripeness,
versus botrytized dessert wine harvested
late in the season which are all made from
the same cultivar like Riesling.

Omotenashi: Hospitality
Japanese hospitality is thought of as more
than the interaction between the host and
guests; it is the curation of the entire experience. This includes the flavor of the presentation of the food, and the decor. It is also for mutual benefit, as the guests also reward the host with gratitude. “Itadaki-masu” and “gochisou-sama”, words of thanks used before and after eating, respectively, help to make those offering the hospitality feel appreciated. A guiding principle of hospitality is ichiza konryu, which means “one group or one

unit.” In the tea ceremony, ichiza konryu is achieved in the sense of unity created through sitting closely together as the host prepares the tea in front of his guests, and how the guests share a tray of sweets, then take turns sipping from the same bowl and passing each fresh serving to the next in line.

Presentation
• Shitsurai: The concept of arranging the indoor space in a way which symbolizes the season or event. This may take the form of decorating the
entry or room with seasonal flowers, or hanging a scroll which depicts the season or the event. The belief that the season should be felt with the eyes and expressed through the selection of
ingredients, tableware, garnishes, and room decor, including seasonal ikebana (flower arrangements).
• Santen-mori: A display of three kinds
of appetizers which provides the visual
stability of a triangle.
Tableware
The host selects a mix of dishware that reflects
the occasion and the season.
• Mitate, or seeing an object in a nonhabitual
way, refers to the substitution
of some unexpected article in place of
a formal utensil. It is about making
do in the frugal sense, and engaging
the imagination with a sense of play
meant to please those who partake of
the meal.
• Hassun platter, named for the unvarnished
square cedar platter, which measured 8 sun in length. (Sun is a traditional unit of measure where 1 sun= ~1.193 inches). The platter is
commonly used in cha-kaiseki and kaiseki ryori, and reflects the host’s hospitality by bringing the essence of the season to the table.

Japanese Culinary History

Jōmon period (traditionally between 14,500-300 BCE)
The earliest historical era of Japanese history, which parallels the Neolithic Period in Europe and Asia.
•90,000 BCE: After the Ice Age, global temperatures warm and game hunting shifts from large animals to small animals.
•3,000 BCE: Holes to store acorns became widely used in pit-dwelling houses in southern Kyushu.
•2,500 BCE: Wet-field rice arrives in Japan.

Yayoi period (300 BC to 300 AD)
•200 BCE: Rice cultivation spreads. Narezushi, made by fermenting fish, was invented.

Kofun period (300 to 538 AD)
•Buddhism is introduced to Japan.
•500 AD: Hajiki pottery is developed, and used to steam rice.

Asuka period: 7th Century
•Kentōshi (official Japanese missions to Tang China) bring the food culture of the continent to Japan.
•675: Emperor Tenmu prohibits eating beef, horsemeat, dog and monkey meat, and chicken.

Nara period (8th Century)
•“So”, made by reducing milk with heat, was used as a tribute to the Imperial court.
•Chopstick usage became widespread.

Heian period (794–1185)
•Daikyo ryori cuisine is developed in aristocratic circles to entertain guests.
•Shojin ryori, the dining style of Buddhist monks, is developed at Buddhist temples.

Kamakura period (1192 to 1333)
Vegetarian meals for Buddhists developed under the influence of a Zen school. Dōgen Zenji wrote “Tenzo Kyokun,” a guide for preparing meals, which he considered as a part of Zen training, and “Fushuku Hanpou,” which explains how to express appreciation for foods and the manners of eating.

Muromachi period (1336 to 1573)
Honzen ryori cuisine (the formally arranged meal) is developed by the samurai class. This style proliferated during the late Edo period through the Showa period as ceremonial dishes served to celebrate weddings. Dishes like soup, main and side dishes and pickles are put on

honzen, and contributed to the establishment of a traditional style of meal, centering around cooked rice. Sake and appetizers enjoyed with sake also developed with the honzen style.

Azuchi–Momoyama period (1568 to 1600)
The cha-kaiseki (multi-dish meal that was served before a tea ceremony), based on the Ichiju Sansai “one soup and three dishes” menu, is developed.

Edo period (1603–1867):
•Soba, tempura, and sushi stalls, and upscale restaurants appear in urban areas.
•Books on cuisine, kaiseki ryori, and enjoying sake and appetizers at restaurants are published.
•The basics of Japanese sweets are generally established.

Meiji period (October 23, 1868 to July 30, 1912):
Japan undergoes modernization and changes from an isolated feudal society into a modern, industrialized nation-state which integrates Western scientific, technological, philosophical, political, legal, and aesthetic ideas.
•Meat is introduced back into the Japanese diet.
•Japan actively imports Western culture. Books on Western cuisine are published, and Western cuisine restaurants open in urban areas.
•Western-style Japanese dishes are introduced, such as nikujaga (stewed potatoes and meat seasoned with soy sauce), sukiyaki, curry and rice, and tonkatsu (Japanese-style cutlet).

Taishō period (July 1912 to December 1926)
The National Institute of Nutrition was founded.

Post World War II:
Animal protein consumption becomes further emphasized by the scarcity of food post-war. By the 1980s, an increased consumption of imported wheat, dairy (from about 60 g to about 240 g), meat (from about 14 g to 80 g) and frozen/processed foods occurred in conjunction with a decrease in consumption of domestically produced rice, fish and vegetables. This results in an increase of lifestyle-related diseases, due to excessive fat intake and a decrease in the food self-sufficiency ratio based upon caloric intake, which declined from 73% in 1965 to 39% in 2012.

Geographical and Natural Resource Influence on Washoku

Climatic Influences:
•Japan has four distinct seasons.
•Japan has a variety of climates, ranging from Hokkaido’s sub-arctic/northern temperate climate to tropical Okinawa.
•In the northern region harsh winters resulted in techniques designed to preserve vegetables for a long time. Dried fish, mochi, pickled ume, and freeze-dried tofu are all long-life processed foods.
•Humid summers have created the need for fermented foods to improve the storage life, nutritional value, and flavor of food. Examples include miso and soy sauce, vinegar, and pickled vegetables.
•Japan’s islands are wide enough that some populations of people have had limited access to the sea. This has led to culinary strategies that improve the storage life of fish or the usage of freshwater fish.

Natural Resources
Ocean Resources
•Japan’s productive fishing grounds are created by the intersection of the Japan Current and the Oyashio Current.
•To compare similarly sized fisheries, 90% of Norway’s fishery yield is composed of eight varieties of fish, whereas Japan has 28 varieties that make up 90% of fishery yields.
•Japanese kitchen knives are centered around processing various types of fish.

Fresh Water (Potable)
Water suitable for drinking is abundant as there is an annual rainfall of 1,800 mm. It also contains fewer minerals, in contrast to hard water found in continents like Europe (u120 mg/L or less).
Cooking methods using soft water to accentuate the flavor of the ingredients, based on steaming, boiling and stewing, were developed. These techniques include: Natural Resources
•Tofu, which is predominantly made of water, is therefore influenced by the water quality.
•Rice, which is first rinsed several times before being steamed with water. Not all cultures rinse rice.
•Vegetables boiled, then rinsed with water thereafter to remove any impurities.
•Firming the surface of soba noodles with cold water after boiling.
•Soft water enhances the flavor of konbu and katsuobushi effectively, which results in a cooking method that uses dashi stock.

For these reasons and others, water is religiously worshiped and plays an important role in Japanese culture.

Characteristics of
Washoku

Cooking Techniques
(Note: tabemono means “food,” therefore, “mono” is a derivation also meaning food) (物)mono=food/dish
Agemono– deep fried. A professional chef can make a career as an agemono specialist. The secret to the lightness of Japanese agemono lies in careful attention to the temperature and quality of the oil, and the consistency of the batter.
Namamono– fresh and raw. Examples include sashimi, sunomono, and vegetable salads.
Mushimono– steamed dishes.
Nimono– a simmered dish, typically using sake and mirin. This technique is used to infuse seasonings into the ingredients, while leaving the food intact and tender.

Yakimono– broiled/grilled. Examples include charcoal-grilled fish or chicken. There is even Iwate charcoal, made from Japanese oak or sawtooth oak grown in Iwate Prefecture, which has a Geographical Indication. It is coveted for its minimization of smoke, flame and odor when burned.
Tsukemono– Pickled foods.
Fermented Foods, including seafoods like kusaya, narezushi, katsuobushi, and shiokara, in addition to fermented soy products like miso.

Wagashi (Japanese sweets)
Washoku sweets can be divided by moisture content and production process. These are:
Namagashi (wet confectionary): Contains 30% or more moisture.
Substyles include: mushi-gashi (manju, uirou), mochi-gashi (mochi, dango, sekihan), nagashi-gashi (yokan), Yaki-gashi (dorayaki), neri-gashi (nerikiri)

Han-namagashi (semi-fresh confectionary): Contains 10-30% moisture.
Oka-gashi (monaka), yaki-gashi
Higashi (Dry Confectionary): Contains 10% or less moisture.
Sub-styles include: Beika (senbei, arare), uchi-gashi (rakugan, wasanbon), age-gash9 (karinto, imo kenpi).

Higashi (Dry Confectionary): Contains 10% or less moisture.
Sub-styles include: Beika (senbei, arare), uchi-gashi (rakugan, wasanbon), age-gash9 (karinto, imo kenpi).

Thematic wagashi
•Tea ceremony wagashi are paired with matcha and the ingredients. Colors are determined according to the season.
•Sweets connected to annual functions like Hinamatsuri (Girls’ Day festival). Kusamochi (mochi seasoned with yomogi or mugwort) is a symbol of strong vitality and is believed to have the effect of expelling evil spirits.

For a great resource on wagashi styles, read more at: justonecookbook.com/wagashi-varietiesjustonecookbook.com/wagashi-varieties

Typical Composition
Ichiju sansei: One soup (ichiju) and three side dishes (sansei).
•The traditional structure of daily meals consists of one soup and three side dishes, all centered around a bowl of rice and served with pickled vegetables. In other words, cooked rice is the main dish, and the three elements are side dishes.
•One of the first known depictions of ichiju sansai is in a 12th century Heian-era picture scroll.
•Through the early 20th century, meals were typically served on a tray with legs just big enough to hold one soup and three small dishes.

Niju gosai: Two soups (niju) and five dishes (gosai).
Appeared frequently in the Edo period.
Two small tables were used to hold the nijū gosai, compared to the single small table used in ichiju sansai, the ordinary daily household meal. When entertaining, two or more trays were used to carry niju gosai.

Ichiju issai: One soup (ichiju) and one side (issai).

Image By: Shutterstock

Styles of
Japanese Food

Shojin Ryori
Originating in China during the Song dynasty (960– 1279) at monasteries, this style of cooking and eating is based upon the Buddhist monk’s strict vegetarian diet, and can be part of the preparation for the monks’ ascetic training. It was introduced to Japan by Buddhist monks in the 1300s, and often consisted of ichiju issai (one soup, one dish) with rice and seasonal vegetables.
Today, Shojin ryori refers to Honzen-style Shojin ryori, a more elaborate version of what the monks were eating, as it includes more courses and more food and was served to temple visitors who were there to practice zazen meditation. At the temple Daitoku-ji in Kyoto, which was home to historic tea master Sen no Rikyū (1522 – April 21, 1591), Daitokuji Ikkyu restaurant has been continuously running for the past 500 years.

Key ingredients:
•Soy products, including tofu, yuba (soy milk skin), namafu (wheat gluten), and natto (fermented soybeans).
•Seasonal vegetables.
•Seasonings including: dashi, soy sauce, sake, mirin, miso, vinegar, and sesame oil, all of which are used sparingly.

Cooking approach:
The Rule of Five: Every meal offers five colors (green, yellow, red, black, and white) and five flavors (sweet, salty, sour, bitter, umami).

Kaiseki vs Shojin ryori
•The sequencing of courses is more flexible, open to the interpretation of the chef in charge.
•The hassun course is much more sumptuous than that served in the tea ceremony.
•Rice is offered only at the end of the meal, and tea is not central to kaiseki.

Kaiseki
Kaiseki, meaning “a stone on the stomach” is derived from Zen Buddhists in old Thailand and Myanmar who were prohibited from eating after midday. To stave off hunger during long meditation periods, the priests would hold warm stones against their stomachs, thus the name Kaiseki, or “empty stone”. Kaiseki has transformed into intricate meals, and can be divided into two types.

Cha-Kaiseki
Originating over 400 years ago with tea master Sen no Rikyu, cha-kaiseki was developed in conjunction with the perfection of the minimalist wabi-cha style of tea ceremony. This created an intimate communion of host and guest through the design of the tea room, the implements used, and a simplified meal served on a single tray. This was in response to the highly ritualized and elaborate Honzen ryori banquets, which typically involved three separate courses, each consisting of multiple dishes.

Cha-Kaiseki Format:
Ichiju sansai
Dishes are typically served on a legged lacquer

tray. Traditionally, each guest takes their portion before passing the remainder to the next guest. Similarly, when warm sake and cups are brought to the table, the guest of honor takes the cup on the top and passes the rest to the next person, who follows suit. This helps the host, contributes to the spirit of fellowship, and embodies Rikyu’s vision. The dishes consist of:
•Rice: Only a mouthful of rice is served and the soup bowl is filled halfway, due to the multitude of courses during a Kaiseki.
•Miso Soup: The type (red, white or blended) of miso used for soup is based upon season.
•Mukozuke: The first side dish in ichiju sansai, is sometimes otsukuri, and often consists of a sliced dish of seasonal sashimi.
•Wanmori (a simmered dish) is the second side dish, and traditionally a main course in cha-kaiseki’s ichiju sansai. The simmered dish typically includes a clear broth ladled over the top to just barely cover the ingredients.
•Yakimono (a grilled dish) is the final dish of the ichiju sansai portion. It typically consists of a grilled fish fillet.
Following wanmori, a second serving of sake may be offered.

From this course onward, the food is plated large, to be shared among the guests, who each transfer a serving onto his or her now-empty mukozuke dish.

Azukebachi
Azukeru means “entrust,” and refers to the host entrusting the guests with the bowl from which they serve themselves.
This dish can be:
•Flavor-rich dishes served with steamed white rice that pair well with sake are typical of this course. Examples: deep-fried agemono, vinegared sunomono, or a takiawase medley of separately simmered ingredients.
•Suimono: A clear soup, typically with dashi broth and few accompaniments.
•During this course, there is typically a ritualized exchange: the host offers to serve rice, but the guests decline and instead offer to help themselves.

Hassun platter
In Cha-kaiseki, the hassun platter typically features dishes which represent the bounty of land and sea, like meat or fish and a vegetable, which are contrasted through both style of cooking and arrangement on the tray.

Yuto and ko no mono
These courses follow the teachings of Zen Buddhism and represent leaving nothing to waste.
•Yuto: A pitcher of lightly salted hot water poured over the crisp and slightly charred rice at the bottom of the cooking pot.
•Ko no mono: pickles

Guests conclude the meal by placing their chopsticks on the tray in unison. This gesture of thanks also indicates to the host that they have finished eating. The guests then leave the room so that it may be prepared for the tea ceremony.

Common Types of Japanese Restaurants and Meals

(the suffix-ya = restaurant.Example: tonkatsu-ya)
Ryotei: A traditional Japanese restaurant which may serve Kaiseki

Itamae Kappo
Itamae = “In front of the cutting board.” Kappo is derived from a Chinese word written with characters meaning “to cut” and “to cook” the two modes of preparation.
Itamae Kappo refers to an intimate Japanese restaurant where diners order their dishes directly from the chef, who presides over the counter and prepares the dish.

Bento
History
•Originated in China’s Song dynasty (960–1279) and arrived in Kyoto in the late 1300s. Initially consisting of three-tiered jikiro baskets made of woven bamboo, bento boxes were used by the Japanese for spring blossom-viewing picnics and autumn excursions to enjoy the foliage or gather mushrooms.
•Toward the late 1500s, the sageju set of wooden boxes, serving plates, and sake flasks and cups evolved, later flourishing during the Edo period (1603– 1867) as kabuki attendees brought their own bento. By the mid-1800s, theaters and train station platforms sold their own bento. Then in 1937, the bento was elevated, as a high-end Japanese restaurant in Osaka created the iconic Shokado bento in a traditional black-lacquered bento box named after the early Edo-period painter, priest, and tea master Shokado Shojo (1584−1639), who used a box similar to that which was commonly used by farmers to store seeds, as his paint kit.
•Today, there are numerous styles of bento throughout Japan and overseas, especially in France.

Bento Box Image By: C_KAWI/Shutterstock

Sushi-ya/Kaitenzushi
Sushi-ya is a specialized sushi restaurant. Kaitenzushi is an informal, often conveyor belt sushi restaurant.

History
Sushi is derived from an ancient Chinese method of salt-preserving fish and then allowing it to ferment in a container of rice. This practice spread throughout Japan, where it provided a supply of dietary protein. During the Edo period near Tokyo, this technique evolved in street stalls into the modern style of sushi.

Styles of Sushi:
Nigiri-zushi/Edomae
Refers to its Edo (early Tokyo) origins.

Nare-zushi: A skinned and gutted fish is stuffed with rice and salt cured to deepen the flavor, and to preserve the fish during transport.

Haya-zushi (“fast sushi”: Emerged in the mid-Edo period (1603– 1867) and has a sour taste derived from the vinegar mixed into the rice.

Kansai-style hakozushi presses the flavored rice and fish together in block shaped form.

Edomae nigiri-zushi of the Kanto area serves the fish on bite-sized morsels of rice.

Sashimi/ Chirashi: Rice and Fish with sashimi rice is served separately, whereas chiraishi neta is served on rice.Oshizushi (layering nori, rice and neta in an oshibako (like spam musubi) / Inarizushi (cone sushi)

Makizushi (maki=roll)
Substyles include hoso-maki (thin rolls), futomaki (thick rolls), saikumaki (decorative rolls), temaki (hand rolls), and uramaki (inside out rolls).

Key Element of Sushi:
Shari (sushi rice): is pressed into shape. It should be firm enough to remain intact when lifted, but loose enough to dissolve in the mouth.
Neta: The toppings on the shari are sliced for optimum flavor and texture. For example, the size and thickness of neta is dependent on the part and firmness of the fish.
Sushi quality is also determined by the fishing process: line-caught fish is preferable to net-caught fish because the flesh is less likely to be bruised.

Styles of Sushi:
Nigiri-zushi/Edomae
Refers to its Edo (early Tokyo) origins.

Nare-zushi: A skinned and gutted fish is stuffed with rice and salt cured to deepen the flavor, and to preserve the fish during transport.

Haya-zushi (“fast sushi”: Emerged in the mid-Edo period (1603– 1867) and has a sour taste derived from the vinegar mixed into the rice.
Kansai-style hakozushi presses the flavored rice and fish together in block shaped form.
Edomae nigiri-zushi of the Kanto area serves the fish on bite-sized morsels of rice.

Sashimi/ Chirashi: Rice and Fish
With sashimi rice is served separately, whereas chiraishi neta is served on rice.
Oshizushi (layering nori, rice and neta in an oshibako (like spam musubi) / Inarizushi (cone sushi)

Makizushi (maki=roll)
Substyles include hoso-maki (thin rolls), futomaki (thick rolls), saikumaki (decorative rolls), temaki (hand rolls), and uramaki (inside out rolls).

Key Element of Sushi:
Shari (sushi rice): is pressed into shape. It should be firm enough to remain intact when lifted, but loose enough to dissolve in the mouth.

Neta: The toppings on the shari are sliced for optimum flavor and texture. For example, the size and thickness of neta is dependent on the part and firmness of the fish.
Sushi quality is also determined by the fishing process: line-caught fish is preferable to net-caught fish because the flesh is less likely to be bruised.

An Assortment of Sushi and Sashimi Image By: Natalia Lisovskaya/Shutterstock

Tempura-ya/Tendon
Both serve tempura, however tendon is the more casual version. Originated during the Edo period in the Tokyo Bay area as a way to offer up the daily catch at food stalls.
Made by dipping seafood or vegetables in a light batter of flour, water, and eggs before deep-frying. The difference between tempura and other deep-fried food is that tempura is not about cooking the food until it is done, and more to do with leveraging the ingredient’s water content so that it steams in itself with the careful application of heat.

Sukiyaki-ya/Shabu Shabu-ya
Originated in the late 1800s, when meat was added to the Japanese diet as part of the country’s modernization effort.
Kansai-style: The beef is partially stir-fried, then topped with hot warishita (sukiyaki sauce) to finish the cooking process.
Kanto-style: The meat is simmered together with other ingredients in warishita from the start.

Katsu
Breaded and deep-fried pork cutlet or a hamburger patty topped with gravy. These dishes were introduced to the washoku diet after Japan opened its ports to the world in the Meiji period (1868–1912).

Izakaya
Otsumami (snacks for beer and other alcohol)
Examples include: Wasabi peas, ika ten (Squid tempura), saki ika (dried and shredded squid or cuttlefish), nori ten (tempura nori), ika kun (dried calamari).

Other Types of Restaurants
•Kissaten (Coffee shops)
•Teishoku-ya (set menu restaurants)
Yatai (Food stalls or carts) and shokudo (small, often family-run restaurants or cafeterias) may have a specialty like: kare (Japanese curry), ramen, udon, soba, gyudon (beef donburi restaurant), yakiniku, yakitori (grilled Chicken), okonomiyaki, tonkatsu, kushiage (skewered deep fried meat and vegetables), and nabemono.

Tempura (Shrimp) Image By: Ostancov Vladislav/Shutterstock

Katsu (Chicken) dinner Image By: NPDstock/Shutterstock

Japanese Flavors

Flavor Profiles
Salty, spicy, sweet, sour, bitter, and umami.
Umami, the savory flavor found naturally in ingredients like katsuobushi (bonito flakes), konbu (kelp) and shiitake (Japanese forest mushrooms), has been identified chemically as glutamate, 5′-inosinate, and 5′-guanylate. Its emphasis is somewhat unique to Japanese food, although it has been utilized globally. The first academic paper published was Ikeda K. On A New Seasoning. Journal of the Tokyo Chemical Society. 1908; 30:820–836.

For more on umami, visit the Umami Information Center: umamiinfo.com/
Additional research can be found at: Kurihara K. (2015). Umami, the Fifth Basic Taste: History of Studies on Receptor Mechanisms and Role as a Food Flavor. BioMed research international, 2015, 189402. https://doi.org/10.1155/2015/189402
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4515277/

Ingredients

Seafood

Japan’s traditional seafood-heavy diet was due to an abundance of ocean resources. Meat consumption was generally prohibited until Japan lifted its seclusion and started taking in international cultures in the Meiji period.

Fish
Seaweed
Shellfish
Freshwater fish

Fish
There is a diverse selection of fish regularly consumed in Japan. This has created a multitude of fish dishes, and the annual consumption of fish in Japan is about 57 kg per person, which is about twice that of the U.S. and 6th in the world.

Seaweed
An essential part of the Japanese diet, about 50 kinds of seaweed are consumed. It is also presented as part of an offering in festivals and rituals to deities. The three major groups of seaweeds consumed are:
•Red algae, including funori (which is dried to make nori) and tengusa.
•Brown algae, including mozuku, and:
•Konbu, which is typically dried and used as an ingredient for dashi stock and as a source of umami.
It is also a typical offering in Shinto rituals and other celebratory foods.
•Wakame, which is used for miso soup and vinegared dishes.
•Green algae, including green laver and sea grapes.

Shellfish
and noshi-awabi, which is an abalone cut into thin strips and dried, is used as a symbol of food in abundance for rites and celebration.

Freshwater fish
Including carp, ayu, funa, eels and loach (found in rice paddies) are eaten in mountain regions where it is difficult to obtain fish from the ocean. Various cooking methods have been developed for freshwater fish, as they are rarely consumed raw due to potential parasites, and because they typically have a strong scent and taste. Techniques include:
•Koikoku, which uses extended stewing in thick miso sauce to reduce the scent of carp.
•Kabayaki preparation of eel adds strong seasoning.
•Funa-zushi, made in Shiga Prefecture, ferments the funa fish caught in Lake Biwa with lactic acid bacteria, together with salt and cooked rice, in order to improve the storage life and bring out umami.

Traditional Vegetables

Traditional vegetables, according to Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, are “those grown for more than three generations and cultivated with methods that took root in the region.” There are active movements to preserve these vegetables.
Common Vegetables include: yams, cabbages (spring cabbage, highland cabbage, napa cabbage, aka won bok, and winter cabbage), lettuces, and eggplant (nasu).

Vegetables native to the region include:
•Bamboo shoots (takenoko), gobo (burdock), warabi (bracken fern), tara-no-me (Japanese Angelica tree sprouts), Fuki (butterbur buds)
•Mushrooms (enoki, Pleurotus eryngii aka king oyster mushrooms, iwatake, maitake, matsutake, nameko, shimeji, shiitake)
•Kyoyasai, aka heirloom Kyoto vegetables: kujo negi (spring onion), mizuna, mibuna, hanana, kintoki ninjin carrot, Fushimi Togarashi chili, manganji togarashi, yamashina nasu eggplant, shogoin daikon, and shogoin kabu daikon.
•For more on Kyoto vegetables, visit: guide.michelin.com/en/article/travel/kyoyasai-kyoto-s-green-treasure

Cocktail Usage:

Bloody Mary “Garnish”:
Many of these vegetables would work well if grilled/baked especially when paired with a shochu base. Imo (sweetpotato) shochu’s earthiness works particularly well.
Menma, dried bamboo which is typically used as a topping for noodle soup and ramen, can be used to garnish savory drinks and provide an earthy flavor.

Tsukemono may be used in a dirty martini.
Types include:
Gari: Thinly sliced ginger, ideally young and naturally pink, pickled with an amazuzuke marinade of sugar, salt, and rice vinegar.
Takuan: Daikon pickled by sun-drying and salting, before being brined with nukadoko (rice bran) which is rich in Bacillus subtilis. Persimmon peels and nasturtium flowers are traditionally used for color.

Umeboshi: Plum packed in barrels with salt during the summer rainy season (late June and July) before being dried in the sun in August. They are then repotted with umezu, the residual brine from the first pickling and stored for a year or longer before eating.
Koume: Meaning “little plums”, the green unripe plums undergo a similar preparation of salt packing.
Beni Shoga: Red ginger slivers pickled in umezu, the leftover brine from making umeboshi.

Shibazuke: Pickled cucumber and eggplant, salted and brined with red shiso, which makes it purple.

Kyurizuke: Japanese cucumber pickled with rice bran or miso and asazuke. Aokyurizuke is marinated in shoyu, salt and sugar.

Fukujinzuke: Seven different chopped vegetables including lotus, daikon, eggplant, and cucumber, pickled with red shiso, soy sauce and sugar.
Nasu no Tsukemono: Eggplant Tsukemono.

Washoku with Geographic Indications:
gi-act.maff.go.jp/en/

Grains, Beans, Seeds and Nuts

Azuki (red bean)
Chestnuts (Kuri)
Sesame Seed (Goma)

Azuki (red bean)
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form factor for Cocktail Use: Syrup. Paste can be used to rim glass.
Native to: Japan, Korea, China, Nepal and Bhutan.
Commercial Significance: Second most cultivated legume in Japan and primarily grown in Hokkaido, with smaller cultivation in Kyoto and Hyogo.
Culinary Usage in Japan: Japanese confectionaries.

Chestnuts (Kuri)
Cocktail Usage
•Pair with: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Use candied chestnuts as a syrup.
Native to: Castanea crenata, also known as the Korean or Japanese chestnut, is native to Japan and Korea.
Commercial Significance: Primarily cultivated in Ehime, Ibaraki, and Kumamoto Prefectures.

Primary Cultivars in Japan: Tamba, Shiba, Linuma Kuri (Ibaraki).

Culinary Usage in Japan: kuri gohan (chestnuts seasoned with salt and steamed with rice), horaku-yaki (grilled white fish, shrimp, shiitake, ginkgo nuts and candied chestnuts seasoned with rock salt and pine needles and ponzu, and kuri-ama-ni (candied) sweets.

Sesame Seed (Goma)
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Whole and roasted as garnish, use sesame oil to fat wash a spirit, or turn the paste into a syrup.
Native to: India.

Commercial Significance: Japan is the world’s largest sesame importer.
Culinary Usage in Japan: Sesame is used in a multitude of sauces and dressings.

Rice (Gohan)

Native to: Yangtze River basin in China
Commercial Significance: Rice is primarily grown in Niigata, Hokkaido, Akita, Yamagata, Miyagi

Primary Cultivars in Japan:
Cultivars of rice can be divided by grain length and the amount of amylose and amylopectin, where high amylose and low amylopectin means the rice is waxy, looks translucent when raw, and has a firm, dry texture when cooked.

Indica
Japonica

Indica
Is a type of long grain rice which contains more amylose and amylopectin, making it less sticky. Examples include: jasmine and basmati rice.

Japonica
Is a short grain rice which is the primary cultivar in Japan. Substyles include:
•Glutinous rice, which is high in amylopectin, is typically used for sekihan and mochi. (glutinous rice does not contain gluten).
•Non-glutinous japonica, which can be further divided into table rice and sake-specific rice. Popular sake rice cultivars include Calrose, Yamada-nishiki, Omachi, and Gohyakumangoku.

Culinary Usage in Japan:
•Historically, the primary component of the Japanese diet, rice is hydrated and steamed, or can be turned into flour.
•Types of Rice Flour include: joshinko (short grain rice used for confections), mochiko (glutinous rice flour commonly used to make mochi), shiratamako (glutinous rice flour used for confections).

Sweet potato (Imo)
Cocktail Usage: Base ingredeint in imo shochu
Native to: the Americas, and introduced to Okinawa via the Portuguese in the 1600s.
Commercial Significance/Primary Growing Location: Kagoshima, Okinawa.

Primary Cultivars in Japan:
Satsuma-imo, Beni-imo (Okinawan sweet potato).
Culinary Usage in Japan: imo shochu, roasted, used in tempura, used in stews and braises. Satsuma-imo is used to make kuri-kinton (*sweet potato and candied chestnuts).

Soybeans
Cocktail Usage
•Edamame works well as a flexible bar snack, and seasoned edamame can have a high profit margin.
•Kinako, dried and powdered soybeans, can be used to rim a cocktail glass.

Culinary Usage in Japan
Sauces: See Shoyu and Miso

Tofu
Styles:
•Momen (common tofu)
•Kinu (silk tofu) is when the curds are not drained.
•Yaki-dofu: broiled tofu

Fermented Soy Products
•Natto/itohiki natto (stringy natto): Made by fermenting soybeans with hay bacillus. It can be eaten alone or used as an ingredient in soup or as a dressing.
•Tera-natto: Made by adding koji molds to boiled soybeans for fermentation and maturing while being dried. Unlike stringy itohiki natto, tera-natto is dry and salty. It is said that the food arrived from the continent together with the propagation of the Zen Buddhist school, and is called tera (temple)-natto because it was often made in temples.

Sweeteners

Johakuto
Kuromitsu
Kori-Zato
Sanonto
Kokuto

Johakuto
Japanese white sugar/caster sugar is the most common sugar in Japan.

Kuromitsu
Japanese sugar syrup.

Kori-Zato
“Kori” = ice, Zato, pronounced Sato = sugar. Kori-Zato is a rock candy that looks like small pieces of crystal ice.

Sanonto
A brown sugar produced by boiling down centrifuged molasses over and over again, which is unique to Japan.

Kokuto
An unrefined black cane sugar from Okinawa that is rich in minerals.

Wasanbon Sugar
Made in Tokushima Prefecture, has a subtle, enticing flavor and is an essential ingredient for wagashi sweets.

Fruits

Images and Insight from the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries:
maff.go.jp/e/policies/agri/index.html
www.facebook.com/maffjapan.en

Asian Pear (Nashi)
Apple (Ringo)
Cherry (Sakuranbo)
Japanese Citrus
Mandarin Orange (Mikan)
Strawberry

Asian Pear (Nashi)
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Fresh and muddled.

Native to: East Asia.
Commercial Significance:
Primarily cultivated in Chiba, Ibaraki, Tottori, Fukushima, and Nagano.

Primary Cultivars in Japan: Kosui, Nansui, Nikkori.
Culinary Usage in Japan: Typically eaten fresh.

Image provided by: Japan Ministry of Ag

Apple (Ringo)
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Fresh muddled, as a syrup, or as a juice.

Native to: Central Asia; cultivation in Japan started in the Meiji Period.
Commercial Significance/Primary Growing Locations: Primarily grown in Aomori, Nagano, Iwate, Yamagata, and Fukushima.

Primary Cultivars in Japan:
Fuji, Ourin, Mutsu, Sekaiichi, Kinseki, Shinano Gold, Shinano Sweet.

Culinary Usage in Japan:
Eaten fresh, and also used as a popular juice, soda and confectionary flavor.

Image provided by: Japan Ministry of Ag

Cherry (Sakuranbo)
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Whole, as a juice, as a syrup, or as a fruit preserve.
Native to: Europe and Western Asia. Edible cherries were introduced to Japan in the Meiji Period.

Commercial Significance: Primarily grown in Yamagata, Hokkaido and Yamanashi.

Primary Cultivars in Japan:
Satonishiki, a cultivar developed in Japan which is a cross between Tobaz and Napoleon cherries, Higashine sakuranbo (Yamagata).
Culinary Usage in Japan: Satonishiki cherries are popular as a seasonal gift, and are also turned into a juice.
•Sakurayu: Salt-pickled blossoms steeped into a tea, which is drunk at celebratory events.
•The fruit of these species have minimal flesh and a bitter taste. If eaten, the seed is removed before creating a fruit preserve.

Image provided by: Japan Ministry of Ag

Japanese Citrus
Primary Cultivars in Japan
•kiyomi, shikuwasa, hassaku, kinkan, sudachi, setoka
•Pomelo: Yatsushiro Tokusan Banpeiyu Pomelo (Kumamoto)
•Hetsuka Daidai (kagoshima), Oita Kabosu (Ooita)

Commercial Significance:
Primarily cultivated in Wakayama, Ehime, Shizuoka, Kumamoto, Nagasaki, Saga, and Hiroshima.

Image provided by: Japan Ministry of Ag

Mandarin Orange (Mikan)
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: gin, shochu (not imo), rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Fresh muddled or as a juice.
Native to: The Nanling Mountains in Southern China; however some species have been developed in Japan.

Primary Cultivars in Japan:
•Unshiu Mikan (Satsuma Mandarin) originated in Japan.
•Dekopon/Shiranui Mandarin has a multitude of names, depending on its place of origin. It is also grow in the United States, and labeled under Sumo Citrus (sumocitrus.com).
•Sakurajima komikan (Kagoshima), Kagawa Obarabeniwase Mikan (Kagawa).

Culinary Usage in Japan: Eaten fresh and as a symbol of good luck, especially during the New Year. It is also turned into juice.

Image provided by: Japan Ministry of Ag

Strawberry (Ichigo)
Cocktail Usage
•Pair with: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Fresh muddled, as a juice, as a fruit preserve, or one of the many strawberry flavored Japanese beverages.

Native to: The Americas.
Commercial Significance: Primarily grown in Tochigi, Fukuoka, and Kumamoto.

Primary Cultivars in Japan:
•Amaou, produced only in Fukuoka Prefecture. As it is big, well-shaped, red, and glossy with a well-balanced sweet and sour taste, it is called "AMAOU," taking the first 4 characters of Akai (red in Japanese), Marui (round), Ookii (big), and Umai (delicious).
•Sky Berry was developed in Tochigi Prefecture, after 17 years of selection from more than a hundred thousand strains. It has a large conic shape and mild but outstanding sweet flavor, and a juicy, elegant taste.
•Tochiotome is a strawberry variety developed in Tochigi Prefecture, currently ranked first in Japan in terms of the amount of strawberry production. It has a well-balanced sweet and tart taste. It is popular not only for enjoying as-is, but also for making sweets.

•Culinary Usage in Japan: Eaten fresh or turned into desserts. Also a popular beverage flavor.

Image provided by: Japan Ministry of Ag

*Cultivars with a Geographical Indication
Annotated in red are cultivars with a GI

Yuzu
Japanese Cucumber
Grapes
Melons
Persimmon
Peach

Yuzu
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Young leaves and blossoms can be used to make a tea, or yuzu zest used for aromatics; yuzu juice.

Native to: Central China.
Commercial Significance: Primarily grown in Kochi.
Primary Cultivars in Japan: Kito Yuzu (Tokushima).

Culinary Usage in Japan: Sprigs of mitsuba or a piece of yuzu rind floated on soups are called ukimi. Yuzu zest is also used in clear soups and simmered dishes, and its juice brightens sauces.

Image provided by: Japan Ministry of Ag

Japanese Cucumber (Kyuri)
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Fresh muddled, or use the pickled version as a garnish.

Native to: India.
Commercial Significance: N/A
Primary Cultivars in Japan: Japanese cucumbers are sweeter than other cucumbers and do not contain mature seeds.

Culinary Usage in Japan: Pickled, used in sunomono.

Image provided by: Japan Ministry of Ag

Grapes
Primary Winegrape Cultivars in Japan:
Koshu, Muscat Bailey A
Wine Grape Growing Regions: Yamanashi, Nagano, with Yamagata, Okayama, Fukuoka, and Hokkaido secondary regions.

Other Japanese grapes include: Kyoho, Nagano Purple, Pione, Shien, and Shine Muscat.

Melons
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: brandy, gin, shochu (not imo), rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Fresh, as a syrup, or in one of the many Japanese melon-flavored sodas.

Native to: Hypothesized to be North Africa, Mesopotamia, or Central Asia.
Commercial Significance: Japan’s primary growing regions are Ibaraki, Hokkaido, Kumamoto, Yamagata, Aichi, Shizuoka, and Aomor.

Primary Cultivars in Japan:
•Musk Melons: Crown Melon, Earl’s Melon, Yubari Melon.
•Watermelon (Suika): Daiei Suika (Tottori), Nyuzen Jumbo Suika (Toyama), Zentsujisan Shikaku suika cubed watermelon (Kagawa).
For more on Japanese melons, read:
jpninfo.com/53194

Culinary Usage in Japan: Japanese melons are typically eaten fresh. Melon-flavored candies and drinks, including Midori, are also popular.

Image provided by: Japan Ministry of Ag

Persimmon (Kaki)
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Use whole, turn into syrup, or as a fruit preserve.

Native to: China, with cultivation in Japan starting in the 7th century.
Commercial Significance: Primarily grown in Wakayama, Nara, Fukuoka, and Gifu.

Primary Cultivars in Japan:
Fuyu, Firatanenashi, Jiro, Koga Hanagoshogaki Hanagosho (Tottori).

Culinary Usage in Japan: Eaten fresh and dried: Ichida Gaki (Ichida), Noto Shika Korogaki (Ishikawa), Higashiizumo no Maruhata Hoshigaki (Shimane).

Image provided by: Japan Ministry of Ag

Peach (Momo)
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Muddled fresh, as a juice, as a fruit preserve, or in one of the many flavored Japanese beverages.

Native to: China and cultivated in Japan during the Yayoi period onward.
Commercial Significance: Primarily grown in Yamanashi, Fukushima, Nagano, Wakayama, and Okayama.

Primary Cultivars in Japan:
Akatsuki, Hakuho, Shimizu.

Culinary Usage in Japan: Typically eaten fresh, though also a popular candy and beverage flavor.

Image provided by: Japan Ministry of Ag

*Cultivars with a Geographical Indication
Annotated in red are cultivars with a GI

Other Fruits with a GI
Aomori Cassis, Tsuruta Steuben grape (Aomori), Otake Ichijiku fig (Akita).
Learn more at: gi-act.maff.go.jp/en/register/entry/1.html

Other Popular Fruit:
Ichijiku (a fig mainly of the Masui Dauphine cultivar), kiwi, mizuho (loquat).

Yakumi: Herbs and Botanicals Flavors

Tsuma- Once a main dish has been cooked, spices such as minced ginger and various pungent herbs may be added as a garnish, called tsuma.

Cherry Blossom
Ginger
Myoga Zingiber

Cherry Blossom (Sakura)
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Dried or preserved as a syrup.

Native to: Japan and East Asia.
Commercial Significance:
A multitude of decorative hybrids have been cultivated throughout Japan.

Primary Cultivars in Japan:
Oshima Cherry (Prunus speciosa), and hybrid Sakura comes from a different tree species than sakuranbo.

Culinary Usage in Japan:
•Sakura and leaves are pickled in salt and umezu (ume vinegar), and are used to flavor wagashi (Japanese confectionery) like sakura mochi or anpan (sweet buns with azuki).

Image provided by: Japan Ministry of Ag

Ginger (shoga)
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Whole and turned into syrup.

Native to: Tropical and subtropical forests of Southeast Asia.
Commercial Significance: Grown in Kochi, Wakayama, and Kumamoto.

Primary Cultivars in Japan: Yatsushiro Shoga (Kumamoto).
Culinary Usage in Japan: Grated fresh or pickled (called gari) and served with sashimi or sushi, or used in stews made with aozakana (oily blue-backed fish) or steamed dishes in winter.

Image By; Japan Ministry of Ag

Myoga zingiber (Japanese ginger)
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Fresh muddled into cocktails.
•Native to: Japan, China, and the southern part of Korea.
Commercial Significance: N/A

Culinary Usage in Japan:
Lighter in flavor than shoga (ginger), myoga’s edible flower buds are finely shredded and used as a garnish for miso soup, sunomono, and roasted eggplant. The root is used to flavor and garnish both sashimi and noodles. Minced shiso leaves and myoga are used as a condiment for tataki with katsuo, or a garnish for soba (called yakumi).

Image by: Japan Ministry of Ag

Sansho Pepper
Shiso
Wasabi
Mitsuba

Sansho Pepper (Zanthoxylum piperitum)
The green seed pods of the Japanese prickly ash have a citrusy aroma and are used as an aromatic and flavoring.

Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: brandy, gin, shochu, rum, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: As a syrup, or muddled into a cocktail.

Native to: Japan and Korea.
Commercial Significance: N/A.

Primary Cultivars in Japan: N/A.
Culinary Usage in Japan:
•Buds and blossoms garnish clear soups and simmered dishes.
•Powder from the dried mature fruit is used to flavor unagi.
•Powder from the dried mature fruit is used to flavor for unagi.

Image by: Shutterstock

Shiso
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: gin, shochu, mezcal, tequila, whiskey, vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Fresh muddled. Hana hojiso (stems of flowers), hojiso (seed pods), and mejiso (microgreen shiso), can be used as garnishes.

Native to: Japan, Korea, China, and India.
Commercial Significance: Cultivated Crop.

Primary Cultivars in Japan: Red shiso (aka-jiso) is less fragrant than green shiso (ao-jiso).

Culinary Usage in Japan:
Leaves are used to garnish sashimi and diminish its fishy smell. It is also used extensively in pickling to provide flavor.

Image By; Japan Ministry of Ag

Wasabi
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: gin, shochu, mezcal, tequila, whiskey (Scotch), vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Fresh muddled.

Native to: Japan.
Commercial Significance: Primarily grown in Nagano, Iwate, and Shizuoka.

Culinary Usage in Japan: Freshly grated, wasabi accompanies sashimi and nigiri-zushi because it paralyzes the sense of smell, thereby reducing fish odors.

Mitsuba (Trefoil)
Cocktail Usage
•Base Spirit Pairing: gin, shochu, mezcal, tequila, whiskey (Scotch), vodka.
•Form Factor for Cocktail Use: Fresh muddled to add a green, herbaceous flavor.

Native to: East Asia.
Culinary Usage in Japan: Sprigs of mitsuba or a piece of yuzu rind floated on soups are called ukimi.

Seasonings and Sauces

Seasonings
Aonori and Furikake:
(Finely powdered nori/seaweed)
Usages:
•As a rice seasoning.
•As an ingredient in furikake, when combined with other seasonings, including sesame and shiso.
•Furikake was created during the post-war period and used to improve rice’s flavor.
Katsuobushi (Dried and Shaved Bonito)
Usage: Dashi ingredient or as a topping for dishes, including okonomiyaki, takoyaki, and ohitashi (cold spinach salad).

Karashi (Japanese Mustard)
(Ground seeds of Brassica juncea aka brown mustard)
Usage: Flavoring for yakiton (grilled pork skewers), oden (a type of Japanese hot pot), buta no kakuni (braised pork), and natto (fermented soy beans).

Rayu (Chili Oil):
(Chili-infused vegetable or sesame oil.)
Usage: A seasoning for ramen and other dishes to add spicy flavor.

Salt
•Coarse-grained salt is used to wilt vegetables for pickling and cure fish for grilling.
•Fine-grained salt is used as seasoning.
•Yakishio (Roasted salt) was developed during the Edo period (1603-1868) as a way to keep salt from getting soggy.
•Moshio (Salt extracted from seaweed) is used as a seasoning.
•Kyoto sake-infused salt is used to season simmered vegetables and clear soups.
•Matcha salt (Salt and matcha) used as an alternative to dipping sauce for tempura.
Shichimi, meaning seven-spice pepper, is made by combining red pepper, sancho pepper, citrus peel, nori, ginger, and sesame, and is used to season soups and noodles at the table.
Umeboshi, made from brined ume that is de-pitted and mashed into a paste, is used in yakiniku, or as a topping for ochazuke, okayu (rice porridge), or cold noodles like somen.
Yuzu kosho, made by combining yuzu peel, yuzu juice, chili (typically green or red thai or bird’s eye chili) and salt is used for seasoning yakimono (grilled food).

“Mother Sauces”

Dashi
Soy
Miso
Japanese Mayo
Rice Vinegar
Mirin

Dashi
Ingredients:
Konbu (kelp), Shiitake (mushgroom)

Other Ingredients may include:
•Katsuobushi (cured bonito shavings) has a concentrated umami flavor, and is probably the most frequently used dashi ingredient. It is produced by a multi-week artisanal process, in which the bonito fish is filleted, simmered, deboned, dry-smoked, cured with mold spores, and sun-dried to yield its rock-hard form and complex umami taste. For the best flavor, it is shaved just before using with a special tool similar to a carpenter’s plane.
•Niboshi, dried anchovies with heads and guts removed, produce an aromatic dashi rich in taste.
•Shrimp

Process
A full-bodied dashi requires temperature control, which begins with cold water, which is then slowly heated to no higher than 80°C (water boils at 100 °C). This solubilizes the glutamates in the ingredients and creates an intense umami, which is derived from the labor-intensive steps involved in each ingredient’s production.

Styles
•Shiitake dashi, made with shiitake, konbu and dried roasted soybeans, is a core ingredient in Shojin Ryori cuisine.
•Classic washoku dashi is konbu and katsuobushi, which produces a clean and understated dashi.

Image By: Shutterstock

Origin
Derived from hishio, a flavoring adopted from China, shoyu’s use of soybeans distinguishes it from the fish-based sauces of other Asian countries.

Ingredients
•Soybeans and/or Defatted Soybeans
Soybean proteins are deconstructed by koji’s protein-breaking enzyme, protease, into umami-producing amino acids. Defatted soybeans have the unnecessary fats removed from the soybeans, while retaining the essential proteins.
•Wheat
Starch from the wheat is converted to glucose by the enzyme amylase, produced by koji. Some glucose is then converted by lactic acid bacteria and acetic acid bacteria into organic acids, which soften the saltiness of the shoyu. Other glucose is converted to alcohol by yeast.
•Salt acts as a preservative for the flavors.
•Koji (Aspergillus oryzae) produces enzymes which convert starch to sugar. Koji, also provides nutrients, specifically amino acids and peptides, which create a hospitable environment for fermentation by the yeast. These amino acids also contribute to the umami.

Process:
Main Brewing Method
Steamed soybeans and roasted wheat are mixed in approximately equal amounts, and seed koji is added to make "koji."
This mixture is put into a tank with saline solution. The moromi (mash) ferments for six to eight months with repeated stirring. Jiuqu, yeast, lactic acid bacteria, and other microbes ferment the mixture until the desired color, taste, and aroma is achieved.

Mixed Brewing Method
An amino acid solution, enzymatic decomposition seasoning solution, or fermentation decomposition seasoning solution is added to the "moromi." It is then fermented and aged while stirring for one month or more.

Hydrolyzed Soy Sauce
Soy proteins are broken down in a few days rather than a few months by boiling the soybeans in hydrochloric acid for 15-20 hours. The mixture is then cooled to stop the hydrolytic reaction. Sodium bicarbonate is applied to neutralize the liquid, after which the mixture is pressed through a filter mixed with active carbon, and then filtered. This results in hydrolyzed vegetable protein. Caramel color, corn syrup, and salt are then used for color and flavor.
Compared to the brewing method, differences in taste occur as acid hydrolysis breaks down more proteins than in the brewed method. Also, the brewed method produces alcohols, esters, and other compounds, whereas acid hydrolysis does not. In the semi-brewed method, hydrolyzed soy proteins are partially fermented with wheat.

Styles
Koikuchi Shoyu (Common)
Accounts for about 80% of domestic production.
Usage: General-purpose condiment, usable in cooking or at the table.

Usukuchi Shoyu (Light Color)
Originated in the Kansai region, and accounts for around 10% of domestic production volume.
Production note: Uses 10% more salt than Koikuchi shoyu. This slows the fermentation and maturation processes, thereby reducing color and fragrance, and accentuating the base ingredient flavors.
Usage: Preserves the color and taste of the ingredients in sugar-boiled stews and takiawase, where ingredients are cooked separately but served together.

Tamari Shoyu
Mainly brewed in the Chūbu region.
Production:
Made with a higher proportion of soybeans than wheat, compared to other shoyu. The ingredients are first steamed to make "Miso Jiuqu," then combined with salt and water before being fermented and aged for almost a year. Occasionally, the liquid that has accumulated on the bottom of the fermentation tank will be pumped over the top. This creates a dense umami flavor. There are two substyles of Tamari:
Raw Tamari: Naturally separated.
Squeezed Tamari: The remaining miso is squeezed out to maximize separation of liquid and solids.
Usage: commonly used with sushi and sashimi. It is also used in grilling, dishes boiled in shoyu, and processed products like rice crackers.

Saishikomi Shoyu
(Refermented or double-brewed)
Produced in the San-in region of Kyushu, centered in Yamaguchi Prefecture.
Production: Blended with other soy sauces rather than blending the koji with brine for brewing. This is why it is called “refermented.”
Flavor: Dense in color, flavor, and fragrance, it is also known as “sweet soy sauce.”
Usage: Mainly used to flavor sashimi, sushi, chilled tofu, and the like.

Kanro Shoyu
Produced in Kyushu, this shoyu uses kiage raw soy sauce instead of saltwater in preparation of the mash. It is matured over 18 months to about 2 years, resulting in a high umami content when the preparation is repeated twice.
For more, read: www.kikkoman.co.jp/c/kiifc/foodculture/pdf_29/e_015_020.pdf

Shiro Shoyu (Extra-light color)
Originated in the Hekinan district of Aichi Prefecture.
Production: Primarily malted wheat. The small percentage of soybeans is roasted and peeled before use. The mash is kept as cold as possible for about three months. This produces an amber shoyu that is lighter colored than Usukuchi shoyu and has a bland flavor with a strong sweetness and unique fragrance.
Usage: Cooking dishes such as soups and chawanmushi (egg custard), which require its fragrance and light color. It is also used in senbei (rice crackers) and pickles.

Salt Level
•Light salt (Asa salt, Ama salt, Low salt): Salt content is less than 20% of ordinary soy sauce.
•Reduced salt: Approximately half the amount of salt in normal soy sauce (100 g of soy sauce, 9 g or less of salt).

For more on Shoyu visit
Soy Sauce Information Center:
soysauce.or.jp

Image By: McP48IRa7Mo/Unsplash

Miso
Miso, like soy sauce, has its roots in China. By the late 1500s, however, Japanese miso had become uniquely different,, with a savory aroma and intense umami quite unlike its Chinese counterpart.

Ingredients:
Soybeans, salt, and koji mold

Production
The mixture of soybeans, salt, and koji mold is fermented. A diverse assortment of miso is created by choosing different koji types (rice, wheat, bean, etc.) and altering the length of the aging process to produce a reddish or whitish hue.

Styles
Rice Miso (Kome miso)
Process: Made by fermenting steamed or boiled soybeans with salt and malted rice added.
Red Miso (Aka Miso)
•Process: A salty miso made by steaming soybeans and maturing them for a long period.
•Regional Styles include:
Sendai miso, Tsugaru miso, Shinshu miso, Edo sweet miso
White Miso (Shiro Miso)
•Process: Mildly sweet and made by boiling soybeans and maturing them for a short period.

•Regional Styles
•Saikyo miso, Sanuki miso, Fuchu miso
Barley Miso (Mugi miso)
•Process: Made by replacing malted rice with malted barley.

•Regions: Kyushu, Shikoku, Chugoku
Soybean Miso (Mame miso)
•Process: Made by fermenting and maturing soybeans.
•Haccho miso/ Sanshu miso: Deep reddish-brown-colored miso made by propagating koji molds in steamed soybean balls.

Blended Miso:
•Inaka miso or country miso is a blend of kome miso and mugi miso.
•Akadashi miso is a blend of kome miso and mame miso.
•Awase miso: Blend of red and white Miso

Usage
•Miso soup
•Simmered down, with minced fish, meat, or vegetables, to yield condensed pastes that can be eaten with rice or used in dips and sauces.

•As a marinade for:
•Vegetables like sun-dried daikon (radish) or salt-cured eggplant.
•Fish and meat. This aids the food’s preservation, removes unpleasant odors, and adds savory flavor. For example, oily fish like mackerel are often stewed with miso to reduce the fishiness.
•As an ingredient in sauces for boiled daikon, konnyaku jelly, or aemono cooked salads.
•As a glaze called dengaku, which is when miso paste is spread on top of food that is then lightly roasted or grilled. Examples include Miso yaki.

For more visit the Japanese Miso Industry website: miso.or.jp

Japanese Mayo
Ingredients: Egg yolk (compared to French mayo that contains egg whites), oil, vinegar (apple cider or rice), and umami (typically MSG).

Usage:
•Dipping sauce for fried foods, including takoyaki, okonomiyaki, katsu, karaage, and yakisoba.
•In place of tomato sauce on pizza.
•Condiment on hiyashi chuka (cold noodle salad).

Rice Vinegar (Komesu/ Komezu)
(kome=rice su/zu= vinegar)

Production
Made from sake that is allowed to continue to ferment until acetic acid bacteria converts the alcohol to acetic acid.

Styles/Ingredients:
•Awase-zu (seasoned rice vinegar) is komezu seasoned with salt and sugar, and typically used in sushi rice.
•Aka-zu (red vinegar) is made from sake kasu or residual sake lees resulting from the pressing from the moromi (mash). Aka-zu is then fermented for an extended period of time. This produces a more intense and full-bodied flavor than white vinegar. For this reason, it has been used to make sushi rice. However, due to its extended aging, it is more expensive than kome-zu.

Mirin
Mirin was developed during the Edo period (1600-1868) as a sweet sake for drinking. According to the British Sake Association, “real hon mirin can, and should, be drunk, in order to best appreciate its depth and complexity of flavour.”

Ingredients: mochigome (steamed glutinous rice, as opposed to the non-glutinous rice used in sake), water, kome koji, and shochu or jozo-alcohol.

Traditional Production: The mochigome undergoes saccharification to sugar by kome koji, and the addition of shochu acts as a preservative so that yeast does not convert the sugar to alcohol. The fermented liquid is then pressed, in a process similar to sake. The resulting liquid may be matured for an additional period of time before being bottled.
Primary Production Region: Aichi Prefecture

Styles
Hon mirin (hon= “true”): Contains 14% alcohol.
Shio mirin (shio=salt): Contains alcohol and is 1.5% salt.
Shin mirin (shin = new)/ mirin-fuchomiryo (lit. mirin-like seasoning), which contains less than 1% alcohol yet retains a similar flavor.

Usage
•Essential flavor in Shojin Ryori cuisine.
•Enhances umami, especially when combined with shoyu and/or miso.
•Freshens aromas by reducing the sulfur notes in egg dishes or stewed fish dishes.
•When combined with shoyu, it creates a basting sauce and glaze for grilled or simmered fish. For example the classic Kabayaki-style grilled unagi (eel).
•Mirin + soy sauce + fruit nectars, berries, pureed tomatoes, or tomato paste = marinade for beef, pork, and poultry.
•For more on Mirin, read: britishsakeassociation.org/2021/06/04/mirin-amber-nectar

Other Essential Dipping Sauces

Goma Dare: Toasted ground sesame seeds, miso and ponzu.
Katsu Sauce: Ketchup, Worcestershire, mirin.
Okonomiyaki Sauce: Oyster sauce, Worcestershire sauce, ketchup, sugar.
Ponzu: Soy sauce, yuzu, mirin, rice vinegar, dashi.

Tare:
•Soy sauce, sake, brown sugar, and sweet mirin.
•Usage: Dipping sauce for grilled foods, or as a marinade for yakiniku.

Teriyaki: Mirin, brown sugar, soy sauce, and ginger.

Tsuyu/Mentsuyu:
•Shoyu, dashi, mirin, and sugar.
•Usage: Dipping sauce for tempura, soba, udon, tsukemen, and hiyamugi.
Wafu Salad Dressing (meaning "Japanese-style dressing"):
Shoyu, rice vinegar, and vegetable oil. Other ingredients include: aonori, grated ginger, umeboshi puree, wasabi and yuzu.

Warishita:
•Shoyu, salt, and sugar.
•Usage: Sukiyaki sauce.

Confectionary Sauce
Mitarashi:
•Sugar, soy sauce, water, and a thickener.
•Usage: Used primarily in confections like mitarashi kushi dango, sweet skewers of chewy rice dumplings.

Japanese Tea

Insight and image from Japanese Ministry of Forestry Fisheries and Agriculture:
www.maff.go.jp/e/policies/agri/attach/pdf/tea_202012.pdf
www.maff.go.jp/e/data/publish/attach/pdf/index-151.pdf

Tea Types (ocha/cha = tea)

Sencha
Kabusecha
Gyokuro
Tama-Ryokucha
Matcha/Tencha
Bancha

Sencha
Most popular type of tea.

Cultivation
Bushes are grown in full sunlight, but like gyokuro only the new leaves are harvested.

Processing
Shoots are steamed, kneaded and dried.

Aroma
In general sencha is green tinged with yellow and has a well-balanced combination of aroma, umami, and bitterness.

Ideal Water Temperature: 150-194 °F
Sencha can also be infused into cold water.

Production
•Main Regions: All regions in Japan
•Percentage of Production: 53.6 %
•Crude Tea Price: JPY 1,178 / kg

Kabusecha
Cultivation
Under a sun-shielding covering made of straw or cheesecloth under “tana” (ceiling shelf) for about one week before harvesting.

Processing
In the same way as Sencha.

Production
•Main Regions: Mie and Fukuoka
•Percentage of Production: 4.2 %
•Crude Tea Price: JPY 1,462 / kg

Gyokuro
Cultivation
The Ooishita method uses sunshade made of straw or cheesecloth under “tana” (ceiling shelf) for approximately 20 days before harvesting. This inhibits astringency and produces leaves with large amounts of theanine, an amino acid that produces umami.

Processing
The same as Sencha.

Aroma
The “finest grade of Japanese green tea”, gyokuro is sweet with a unique and mildly astringent aroma and mellow umami.

Production
•Main Regions: Kyoto and Fukuoka
•Ideal Water Temperature: 122-140 °F
•Percentage of Production: 0.3 %
•Crude Tea Price: JPY 4,928 / kg

Tama-Ryokucha
Processing
Unlike Sencha, a trimming process is not applied to Tama-ryokucha so Tama-ryokucha leaf is round.

Ideal Water Temperature: 160-175 °F

Production
•Main Regions:
•Kumamoto, Saga and Nagasaki
•Percentage of Production: 2.5 %
•Crude Tea Price: JPY 1,686 / kg
Bancha (Whole leaf green tea)

Cultivation
Leaves plucked during late summer after the first sencha harvest.

Processing
Using the same procedure as sencha.

Aroma
A delicate umami, relative to sencha, with just enough tannin to be both astringent, yet light and fresh. Bancha is rich in catechins and vitamin C and a common preference among the Japanese people as an everyday green tea.

Ideal Water Temperature: 212 °F

Matcha/Tencha
Cultivation
Cultivated under a sun-covering for three weeks to one month before harvesting.

Processing
Tea leaves are dried without kneading. The tencha (unground leaves) are then ground with a stone mill.

Aroma
Concentrated sweetness

Ideal Water Temperature: 160-175 °F

Main Production Regions: Kyoto, Aichi and Kagoshima
Percentage of Production: 4.4 %
Crude Tea Price: JPY 2,498 / kg

Bancha
(Whole leaf green tea)

Cultivation
Leaves plucked during late summer after the first sencha harvest.

Processing
Using the same procedure as sencha.

Aroma
A delicate umami, relative to sencha, with just enough tannin to be both astringent, yet light and fresh. Bancha is rich in catechins and vitamin C and a common preference among the Japanese people as an everyday green tea.

Ideal Water Temperature: 212 °F

Tea with Additional Processing

Houjicha
(roasted whole leaf green tea)

Processing
Made by roasting sencha or bancha over a high flame.

Aroma
The roasting process diminishes the tannin and caffeine content of the leaves to suppress astringency and bitterness and draw out fragrance. Its mild flavor and low caffeine content makes it popular with children and the elderly.

Ideal Water Temperature: 212 °F

Genmaicha
(Green Tea with Roasted Rice)

Processing
Roasted rice is mixed with sencha or bancha. Before being blended with the tea, the rice is steeped in water and steamed then roasted at a high temperature, and the popped rice stands out white amongst the tea leaves.

Aroma
Richly-flavored with the savory fragrance from the roasted rice and the refreshing taste of sencha or bancha. Because of its low caffeine content, genmaicha is recommended for all ages, from children to the elderly.

Ideal Water Temperature: 212 °F