Introduction to Cacao and Chocolate Making
By: Brent Nakano
Making Real chocolate, like beverage alcohol, is made by fermentation. In our opinion, having both fermented internationally [1] award winning chocolate and working with farmers that have won another couple dozen national and international awards [2], fermentation is the primary flavor driver in hyper artisanal cacao. It, also like beer and many distilled spirits, is highly influenced by maillard compounds. While the details of flavor development will be discussed later in a separate chocolate issue, this article will cover the overview. It should be noted that this process refers to craft chocolate and not commodity chocolate that is primarily sugar, soy and cellulose, with a minimal amount of cacao.
Cacao Growing Region
Cacao originated in Mesoamerica [3] and has spread globally by trade throughout high rainfall areas of the tropics (20 degrees North in the Tropic of Cancer and South in the Tropic of Capricorn the equator). Currently cacao is predominantly a commodity item which is traded on Commodities Futures markets like at the Chicago Mercantile Exchange [4]. The largest production regions being Côte d'Ivoire, Ghana, Cameroon, and Ecuador [5]. It should be noted that there is a major child slave labor problem in the commodity cacao industry [6]. Fair trade certifications help to denote which chocolate companies are uphold child labor standards [7].
Propagation
Cacao is first propagated from seed however there are a couple options afterwards. The plants can either be left alone to develop naturally, or plant material from a desirable plant can be grafted onto the sapling. For more insight into this read: https://gms.ctahr.hawaii.edu/gs/handler/getmedia.ashx?moid=66136&dt=3&g=12
Development
Cacao takes 3-7 years to bear fruit. As the cacao develops, it is pruned to be at a manageable height that allows for ease of harvesting and so that the branches grow in a desirable direction. This pruning continues throughout the life of the cacao tree.
Ripening
When ripe the cacao turns colors of red, orange, yellow, and purple to the extent that when the skin is scratched the underlayer has also turned color.
Cacao Harvest
The cacao pods are picked by hand off the trunks of the trees when ripe.
Propagation
Cacao is first propagated from seed however there are a couple options afterwards. The plants can either be left alone to develop naturally, or plant material from a desirable plant can be grafted onto the sapling. For more insight into this read: https://gms.ctahr.hawaii.edu/gs/handler/getmedia.ashx?moid=66136&dt=3&g=12
Development
Cacao takes 3-7 years to bear fruit. As the cacao develops, it is pruned to be at a manageable height that allows for ease of harvesting and so that the branches grow in a desirable direction. This pruning continues throughout the life of the cacao tree.
Ripening
When ripe the cacao turns colors of red, orange, yellow, and purple to the extent that when the skin is scratched the underlayer has also turned color.
Cacao Harvest
The cacao pods are picked by hand off the trunks of the trees when ripe.
Cacao Types
Traditionally there are three main types of cacao which chocolate makers refer to. Uncommon cacao, a cacao broker that we have worked with in the past, has a great article on cacao genetics which we have summarized with some additional details [8].Forastero cacao is identified by its large pods and rounded apex (end). It is named for the Spanish term “foreign” even though they also originate in the upper Amazon basin. It is a high yielding cacao that is tolerant of a multitude of growing conditions. For this reason it is commonly used in commodity cacao. This high yield, however, is believed to come at the sacrifice of flavor. Criollo is identified by its medium to small pods with a pointy apex, light colored seeds and is finicky in its growing conditions. Named after the Spanish term ‘‘criollo’’ it might be translated to mean ‘‘local’’, ‘‘native’’ or ‘‘indigenous’’ [9]. It is also medium to low-yielding and in combination, this can cause it to be rare. It is known for producing chocolate with a nutty flavor.Trinitario is identified by its long pods which come to a blunted point at its end. Named after the research activities at Trinidad and Tobago, they are a result of hybridization between forastero and Criollo. This is the most used type of cacao by craft chocolate makers and can produce fruit driven flavors.
Cacao Genetics While we will cover more technical details in an issue dedicated to cacao, from a genetic perspective the types of cacao used by chocolate makers is very loose in definition. This is because cacao can cross pollinate with different “varietals”. Additionally, genetic testing is limited. Motamayor et al 2008, found ten unique clusters of genetics: Amelonado, Contamana, Criollo, Curaray, Guiana, Iquitos, Marañon, Nacional, Nanay, and Purús. For more insight into cacao genetics:Motamayor JC, Lachenaud P, da Silva e Mota JW, Loor R, Kuhn DN, et al. (2008) Geographic and Genetic Population Differentiation of the Amazonian Chocolate Tree (Theobroma cacao L). PLOS ONE 3(10): e3311. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0003311Cacao |
Fermentation Cacao
fermentation is what separates great chocolate from mediocre or commodity chocolate. Similar to coffee, the white mucilage that covers the seed, also known as the cacao pulp or “baba” is what contains sugars. Cracking open the pods: The pods are then cracked open by hand, this process involves hitting them against a sharp edge, like that of a machete to cause a split in the pod. However, care must be taken as to not cut all the way through the pod there-by damaging any of the seeds, they are then pulled apart. Pods with germinated or moldy seeds should be discarded as they can cause undesirable flavors to result in the entire fermentation. 
Fermentation vessel: Anti-fungal wooden boxes are traditional. However, as they are not particularly insulating they can be subject to environmental shifts in temperature. Insulated containers including coolers or deep freezers, sometimes in conjunction with a heating unit, can be used for temperature control and maintenance. Inoculation and microbes: The microbial fermentation of cacao starts similarly to that of wine and then continues to that of vinegar. That is, the initial fermentation is done by inoculated or spontaneous fermentation created by Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Pichia kudriavzevii, Hanseniaspora opuntiae. This produces ethanol, higher alcohols and esters. Simultaneously citric acid bacteria, lactic acid bacteria are also fermenters. Subsequently, acetic acid bacteria metabolize the ethanol into acetic acid (vinegar). These flavors remain in the cacao seed, which ultimately turns into chocolate. Alternatively, improper fermentation (rotting) results in aromas of wet socks and/or rancid cheese. Fermentation temperature should reach 115 °F within the first 2-3 days and then remain consistent. Fermentation maintenance: Mixing should occur daily to ensure even temperature and aeration in days 3-7 as these are when acetic acid bacteria convert ethanol to acetic acid. Fermentation completion: Typically completed at ~7 days and when the desired fissuring of the seed, color changes from white to purple or brown and taste changes from astringent to fruity, and the desired brix is achieved. Drying Upon completion of fermentation, the seeds are dried until they are brittle. This prevents mold from growing on the cacao. |
Chocolate Making
The chocolate making process involves the creation of maillard compound aromas, the integration of sugar and cocoa butter, and the reduction of the cacao bean particle size.
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Roasting
The whole cacao is roasted at 250-325 °F for 30 minutes to 1 hour to develop maillard compound aromas, and dissipate unwanted volatile aromatic compounds. It, however, comes at the expense of fruit aromas. Like in specialty coffee, if the cacao and subsequent fermentation went well, less is more. Darker roasts can similarly help cover up flaws.
Cracking
In preparation for grinding, a machine called a cracker, turns the beans into pieces that are roughly 1cm x 1 cm in diameter.
Winnowing
The cracking process also produces a chaff which needs to be separated from the beans by winnowing. This is done by a special machine that uses air to separate the lighter weight husks from the heavier desirable components. The end product is known as cacao nibs.
Grinding/Melanging, Conching and Refining
This can occur in one step or in different steps. If done in one step all the ingredients are added into a grinder/melanger at the same time and the process will run for 3-4 days depending on the desires of the chocolate producer. Grinding, also known as melanging, is done using a melanger that has large granite wheels which crush and aerate the chocolate in a stainless steel drum.
For more insight into the process: Clark, C., Bettenhausen, H.M., Heuberger, A.L. et al. Effects of time and temperature during melanging on the volatile profile of dark chocolate. Sci Rep 10, 14922 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-020-71822-0
Conching is the process of integrating ingredients including sugar, cacao butter for a velvety texture, and milk powder for milk chocolate. Refining is the reduction of particle size of all the ingredients to 15-25 microns. Over grinding to under 10 micron makes chocolate gummy in texture.
Tempering and Molding
Tempering is the process of solidifying chocolate and having it shiny with minimal air thereby providing a satisfying snap when broken. This is done using a tempering machine which melts the chocolate to a particular temperature, then raises and lowers the temperature while mixing it. The chocolate is poured into molds. The challenge is that tempering must occur at below 50% humidity.
For more insight into growing and cacao production
Hebbar, P., Bittenbender, H. C., & O’Doherty, D. (2011). Farm and forestry pro-duction and marketing profile for cacao (Theobroma cacao). Specialty Crops for Pacific Island Agroforestry. Permanent Agriculture Resources, Holualoa, Hawaii. http://www.agroforestry.net/images/pdfs/Cacao_specialty_crop.pdf (revised).
For a basic approach to making chocolate at home
Bittenbender, H. C., & Kling, E. (2009, January). Making Chocolate from Scratch 1 2. CTAHR. Retrieved November 22, 2022, from https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/uhmg/downloads/Making%20chocolate%20from%20scratch.pdf
The whole cacao is roasted at 250-325 °F for 30 minutes to 1 hour to develop maillard compound aromas, and dissipate unwanted volatile aromatic compounds. It, however, comes at the expense of fruit aromas. Like in specialty coffee, if the cacao and subsequent fermentation went well, less is more. Darker roasts can similarly help cover up flaws.
Cracking
In preparation for grinding, a machine called a cracker, turns the beans into pieces that are roughly 1cm x 1 cm in diameter.
Winnowing
The cracking process also produces a chaff which needs to be separated from the beans by winnowing. This is done by a special machine that uses air to separate the lighter weight husks from the heavier desirable components. The end product is known as cacao nibs.
Grinding/Melanging, Conching and Refining
This can occur in one step or in different steps. If done in one step all the ingredients are added into a grinder/melanger at the same time and the process will run for 3-4 days depending on the desires of the chocolate producer. Grinding, also known as melanging, is done using a melanger that has large granite wheels which crush and aerate the chocolate in a stainless steel drum.
For more insight into the process: Clark, C., Bettenhausen, H.M., Heuberger, A.L. et al. Effects of time and temperature during melanging on the volatile profile of dark chocolate. Sci Rep 10, 14922 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-020-71822-0
Conching is the process of integrating ingredients including sugar, cacao butter for a velvety texture, and milk powder for milk chocolate. Refining is the reduction of particle size of all the ingredients to 15-25 microns. Over grinding to under 10 micron makes chocolate gummy in texture.
Tempering and Molding
Tempering is the process of solidifying chocolate and having it shiny with minimal air thereby providing a satisfying snap when broken. This is done using a tempering machine which melts the chocolate to a particular temperature, then raises and lowers the temperature while mixing it. The chocolate is poured into molds. The challenge is that tempering must occur at below 50% humidity.
For more insight into growing and cacao production
Hebbar, P., Bittenbender, H. C., & O’Doherty, D. (2011). Farm and forestry pro-duction and marketing profile for cacao (Theobroma cacao). Specialty Crops for Pacific Island Agroforestry. Permanent Agriculture Resources, Holualoa, Hawaii. http://www.agroforestry.net/images/pdfs/Cacao_specialty_crop.pdf (revised).
For a basic approach to making chocolate at home
Bittenbender, H. C., & Kling, E. (2009, January). Making Chocolate from Scratch 1 2. CTAHR. Retrieved November 22, 2022, from https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/uhmg/downloads/Making%20chocolate%20from%20scratch.pdf
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